Have Dog, Will Travel!

But check out these amazing infinity pools! At some point, one of these will grace my backyard…or at least the view from a hotel window!

Bali

Greece

Mexico

I’ve taken three driving lessons in my life.

1. White Plains, New York. June, 2002.

After failing my first driving test (and almost causing an accident in the process), I took a lesson with an instructor. Of course, at 16, I thought I was the safest driver on the road. The real reason for signing up with this instructor was his rolodex of connections in the Department of Motor Vehicles. What should have been a 6 month wait for my second test was whittled down to just two weeks.

Lighting off fireworks with my friend Emma, circa 16 years old

2. Fraser Island, Australia. November, 2004.

I took my second driving lesson on the largest sand island in the world. Fraser Island is just off the east coast of Australia, and a beautiful destination that makes for a great two or three days in the sun. Thousands of backpackers make the pilgrimage from Cairns down to Sydney each summer, and most stop to take advantage of the gorgeous beaches found here. Incidentally, it also lays claim to the highest concentration of dingoes on Earth, and is most likely a key component of Nevada’s genetic history.

Nevada doing her dingo face

Most visitors join ready-made “safaris”. Companies rent out old Toyota Landcruisers and squeeze between 8 and 10 smelly backpackers in before handing over the keys and praying the truck will come back in one piece three days later. Our group was composed of me, my brother Jon, and a crew of awful 30-40 year old Brits, plus a freaky Canadian guy. His main objective for his time on the island was the cataloguing of dead animals. I also remember him furiously (and constantly) writing in a small notebook about god knows what.

On the second day, I decided that I wanted to drive. I had never driven a manual before, and the one semi-tolerable British guy gave me a quick tutorial. Old trucks have super easy stick shifts-within moments I was a pro.

Jon doing a handstand-the aforementioned Land Cruiser is to the right

3. Buenos Aires, Argentina. December, 2008

This brings us right up to the present. On Thursday night, I ate dinner with some friends at a great Moroccan restaurant. Afterward, as we waited outside trying to figure out what our next destination would be, I noticed the driver of a Buenos Aires garbage truck staring longingly at our group of (mostly)  female American twenty-somethings. The way the men here gawk at women on the street surely warrants its own post, but suffice it to say that calling it gawking is a bit generous; ogleing probably comes closer.

I walked over, and struck up a conversation with the driver. We quickly found common ground, agreeing on the merits of “rubias Norte Americanas en intercambio” (American blondes studying abroad), and the conversation proceeded along those lines for a couple of minutes. Finally, my friends seemed to be coming to a decision, so I ended with a joke.

“Puedo conducir el camion?” (Can I drive the truck?)

Somewhere between leaving my mouth and entering his ears, these words were transformed from lame joke to serious request. In any case, before I knew it, he jumped out of the cab, and told me to get in. Time for lesson #3.

Example of Buenos Aires garbage truck

I’ve somehow managed to own four cars since I started driving, and three have had manual transmissions, so I thought I had it well under control. Clutch, brake, gas. Stick shift. No problem.

I depressed the clutch, and gripped the shifter in my right palm, before asking,

“Donde esta primero?” (Where’s 1st?)

He smiled and gave me the thumbs up, indicating I was already there. I slowly let up off the clutch…slowly, slowly… and the truck began rolling backwards! I searched for the brake between the clutch and the gas, but found nothing. After traveling a few yards, he jumped up in the cab and hit the emergency brake. The truck quickly came to a stop.

At that point, I thought I’d had enough. In his eyes, however, the lesson had just begun. He insisted that I give it another shot. Of course, I couldn’t refuse his hospitatility, so I started the truck back up, and once again put the shifter into 1st. Ever so slowly, I eased off the clutch…and once again began rolling backward! However seasoned a stick driver I might think I am, this time I suffered the ultimate embarrassment, as the truck bucked and finally stalled out.

I hopped out of the cab, quickly thanked him, and grabbed my friends. We made our way down the street, not quite sure of what had just transpired.

In any case, I don’t plan on changing my day job.

And in other news, today marks the one month anniversary of my arrival in Buenos Aires! It’s been a busy month of relocating, working, and getting to know the city, and hopefully now that December’s here I’ll have a chance to get out and see some of the sites here. Besides going out at night, I really haven’t seen much of Buenos Aires! Over the next few weeks, I plan on seeing sites within the city. I’m also hoping to spend a few nights on an Estancia (ranch) somewhere outside of BsAs. I’ve never really lived in a city before-I miss fresh air!

Hey all,
I recorded a short video below to wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving from down here in hot, humid, sweaty, air conditionless (at least in my apartment) Buenos Aires. A quick warning/disclaimer/embarrasing note: for some reason, my camera makes me sound very effeminate/gives me a lisp straight out of The Cable Guy.

Thanksgiving!

As a little post-posting comment, I watched this video a couple of times and at the point about halfway through where I whistle, Nevada comes running into the room =)

I am so very excited to tell you all about my new apartment. It is the best apartment I could ever have asked for, especially considering that I’m paying roughly half the going rate.

I’ll take some photos of the neighborhood in the next few days (it’s gorgeous, lots of trees and old buildings and very chic restaurants).

The following is a (very) short photographic journey into my new building and apartment. Taking pictures of small rooms is very frustrating because unfortunately cameras can only zoom in. The person who invents a camera that zooms out will be set for life. (captions are underneath the photo)

These are the stairs leading up to my apartment, and that’s my balcony up top. This is just one corner of the building. As a whole, it reminds me of a big museum, tons of marble everywhere. There’s a ton of greenery, too. I’m in charge of watering the plants 2X a week. They don’t bark to remind me to take care of them, like Nevada does.

Check out how big my bed is! It’s a king size (a huge improvement over the twin I was sleeping on in NY)! Also, thanks to my friend Marissa for the awesome photos you (can’t really) see in the background!

Here’s another photo from a different angle!

Last, but most certainly not least, check out the juicing station in the kitchen. Apparently at one point there was a real juice freak living here… manual juicer on the left, blender in the middle, power juicer on the right!

That’s it for now. Thanks to everyone for posting comments! I miss you all a ton, especially with Thanksgiving around the corner. Spending American holidays outside of America sucks. I’ll write something more substantive about that on Turkey Day.

If you thought this post was going to be about our president-elect, I’m sorry to disappoint. We’re here to talk about coins, as in the clinky things you get when you buy something and hand over just a tad bit more money than the purchase price.

While world leaders meet to discuss financial bailouts and impending economic collapse, in my part of the world, we’re much more concerned with a steadily shrinking supply of one peso coins.

Here’s the root cause of the problem: Buenos Aires is almost entirely dependent on its “Colectivo” system of buses.

Props to Marina Vilte for the photo

These things are everywhere. There are about 150 different lines, and the most popular routes run at a frequency of about one bus every two minutes during peak hours. So it’s pretty much an understatement to say that the residents of Buenos Aires completely depend on them.

These buses cost in the area of around 90 centavos (about 25 cents), and you could ride one clear from the south of BsAs all the way north; bring an Ipod, it’ll take you about 2 hours, and at some point you’ll probably end up sitting next to the ubiquitous “El Gordo” (every crew here has one friend referred to simply as “The Fat One”.)

So these buses are crucial to the continuing functionality of Buenos Aires, Argentina, and apparently therein lies the problem. Because colectivos run exclusively on these coins, the 50 centavo and 1 peso coins have become hot commodities. They’re literally being hoarded, and then sold on the black market for up to 6% over face value.

This has far-reaching implications, and effects virtually every transaction you make throughout the day. Waitresses demand that you pay your bill with exact change (apparently in extreme situations, they’ll forecefully open up your purse or wallet to make sure you’re not lying). Taxi drivers round down rather than giving coins. And small retailers actually refuse to make a sale when providing change will be required.

I find this interesting, because it really is all a matter of psychology (specifically, fear and groupthink). By all accounts, there are enough coins in Buenos Aires to make this a non-issue. But the fact that everyone has this idea promotes hoarding, to the point where it becomes institutional as profiteers seek to hold enough coins to further the problem. And I guess it just keeps steamrolling from there.

This was just a funny side note until today, when I needed to ride the bus across town to pick up the keys to my new apartment. I had no coins, and my smallest bill was a 2 peso note. I knew asking for change was out of the question, so I tried to buy a banana. No dice.

I went to another corner shop (this time a franchise-type, 711 deal), and picked up a pack of gum. Another head shaking no. At this point, my life had turned into a Seinfeld rerun.

In the end, I went into a larger retail store, and finally found someone kind enough to give me a couple of coins. All’s well that ends well, I suppose, and lesson learned: I’ll hold onto my change with a death grip.

I’m writing this post from my friend Rose’s apartment. Well, truth be told, she’s not really my friend-we just met on Wednesday evening. I answered her craigslist post looking for roommates, and came to look at her place. It’s really nice, but I actually found another apartment that was a great deal (after about a week of hectic searching). Only problem, there was a two day gap in between the old lease ending and the new lease beginning, so she is being kind enough to let me crash at her apartment until Sunday evening, when I can move.

Two weeks have flown by!

My previous apartment was in San Telmo-I think of it as the Brooklyn of Buenos Aires.

The apartment I’m staying in now is on the border of Recoleta/Palermo-think E80th and 5th.

The apartment I’m moving into on Sunday is in-get this-”Palermo Hollywood.” I can’t really think of a similar place in NYC. It’s mostly low-rises, though only about a 5 minute walk from much busier parts of town. Palermo Hollywood is kind of one of the ritziest areas in Buenos Aires.

Not necessarily exactly where I wanted to live, but I found a great place for a great deal, and couldn’t really pass it up.

Other than, things are good. It’ll be great to be more settled. I haven’t really been taking many photos, but I know how boring a blog is without them and I’ll be posting some soon. Until then, hope everything is well in your part of the world!

Hi all,

Sorry I haven’t taken the time to post, it’s been an extremely hectic week with work and trying to find a new apartment. My lease here ends on Friday, so I’m busy trying to find a place. It wouldn’t be a big deal if I didn’t have the dog because I could check into a hostel. But instead, I have to run around like a pollo with its head cut off.

It’s actually not that serious a situation (I don’t plan on sleeping in any parks). The problem is matching up dates. I found a great place right in the heart of the city (think Greenwich Village), the rent isn’t bad (approx. 550 US per month including utilities), but it doesn’t open up until Sunday evening. Luckily, I looked at a room yesterday that’s being vacated by a really sweet girl (thanks Rose!), and she told me I could stay there for a few days if I decide to take the other place.

Besides that, just busy busy busy with work. For some reason work picked up quite a bit after I left the States! That’s both a good thing and a bad thing, at least this week. I’ll be able to play catch up once I have this whole apartment thing sorted out.

Also went to a soccer game last Saturday, more to come on that later! Hope everyone is well!

My last post was written from what has quickly become my neighborhood pizza joint. I’m very excited; I’ve never had a neighborhood pizza joint before. I guess I had to come all the way to Argentina to find one.

Over the past few days, I’ve had a number of great conversations with the guy behind the counter. It turns out that he is the owner of the shop. He’s only about 25, and I’m not quite sure how he managed to get the operation off the ground, but apparently he owns the entire building, including several apartments above the restaurant.

We have some trouble communicating, but we get along really well. Last night he invited me to eat dinner with a bunch of his friends and the other people who work in the restaurant. It was a traditional Argentine feast, complete with two platters of meat stacked high. Mmm….

Check out the picture of the NY Skyline above my head!

We had a great conversation going around the table. Though there was a language barrier, everyone was patient, and after a while, wild hand gestures began to take the place of detailed explanations.

In the last post, I forgot to mention the street festival that was going on down the street from my apartment on Sunday. It was crazy, the whole neighborhood was filled with bands, vendors, and assorted freaks. Here’s a prime example. For some reason, this made me think of my sister Liz. I guess I knew she would get a kick out of it.

Strange Man Dances With Tango Doll

Right now, I’m working in the library at the local University. I’m in a room with about one hundred students, aged 18-24 or so, and you could literally hear a pin drop. It’s great, though, because I really dislike doing work in coffee shops. After all, you can only drink so much coffee before your legs start twitching, but I feel bad when I don’t keep ordering things. Waiters and waitresses here don’t approach your table until you make a gesture or speak to them, and for some reason that makes it even more awkward.

Anyways, off to finish some work. I’ll be starting to look for another apartment and a language school tomorrow, so I’m trying to get as much out of the way as possible. Things are going really well in that department-strangely, I’ve made more this week than ever before.

My current project is working for a Kuwaiti Real Estate firm.

Tagline: “God helps us to guide you to your future.”

yikes

I’m sitting in a pizza joint up the block from my apartment. This marks visit two today. I’ve noticed something about food in Buenos Aires: 10 pesos (3 dollars) spent at the right place is worth 50 pesos spent at the wrong place.

My first night here, I found a somewhat upscale restaurant and ordered a 35 peso steak to celebrate. To set the scene, I was the only patron in the restaurant. Folks here don’t eat until 10PM, and I was a full two hours early, looking for the early bird special.

The shank of meat my waiter brought after about half an hour made me briefly contemplate becoming a vegetarian…hell, maybe even a vegan. It was everything a steak shouldn’t be: fatty, tough, and tasteless.

Contrast that with my meal tonight: an empanada (think Jamaican beef patty, but less spicy), two slices of pizza and an ice cold coca cola (in a glass bottle!) for 15 pesos!

I’m pretty excited for the start of this new week. Working freelance means that I have no set schedule, so in many ways it doesn’t matter that tomorrow’s Monday. Ending the weekend and beginning the week just means that there’s more cool stuff for me to do. I’m planning on researching spanish classes, and hopefully enrolling in the next few days.

I went out with my friend Peter from Tulane last night. It was one of his Argentine friend’s birthdays, and we went to the party she threw at her house. When I tell you this girl is beautiful, I’m doing her a disservice. She is model beautiful. Still not there. She is sunrise in Maui with Pina Coladas beautiful. Here’s a picture of all of us.

I'll leave it to you to decide which one is the birthday girl.

I didn’t get home until about 5:30AM-things start really late here. I’m working on getting pictures up, hopefully by tonight.

In other news, I’m pretty sure Nevada is at least three-quarters Argentine. We go to the dog park a few times a day (it’s only two blocks from my apartment), and almost every time I’ve seen dogs with similar markings.

I talked with a really nice guy for about an hour today (as his [neutered] dog repeatedly humped Nevada). We had a great conversation. One thing I’ve noticed is that most people are happy to talk to me, even though my Spanish is nowhere near as good as it once was (something that is improving by the day).

Someone (not a family member, how exciting!) said she liked the Nevada update, so I have an exciting contest planned for my treasured readers. Stay tuned for updates, the prize will be out of this world.

OK-off to watch Entourage.

I’ve safely arrived in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and I type this post from my extremely efficient efficiency apartment. Nevada and I are in great shape, a little worn out from the long ride, but otherwise doing well.

My mom gave us a ride to JFK last night. As we pulled off the highway into the airport, my phone buzzed with a call from my brother Jon. He’d told me about a week earlier that he was coming into NYC for the weekend from Phoenix as part of a group trip with his college, but didn’t have any details. As it turned out, his flight landed at JFK about an hour before mine departed, so I was able to see him for a few minutes outside his terminal. This all might seem crazy, but in my family it seems like par for the course.

Nevada was a minor celebrity at the American Airlines check-in, and she was given her first Spanish lesson by a couple of cute Argentine kids. She was distracted enough to miss the ticket agent’s offer of an upgrade of my ticket to business class for only 100 dollars. After a brief moment, I refused it, in a show of solidarity for Nevada riding down in the baggage hold.

The steward on the flight was kind enough to give me a couple of complimentary bottles of awful red wine, and I managed to get at least a few hours of sleep before arriving in BsAs. Customs was a breeze. I’d been worried about Nevada, but 60 pesos later, she was a naturalized Argentine canine. A quick taxi ride brought me to my apartment, and I’ve set up shop here for at least the next two weeks.

A few quick notes:

The people here are really friendly. I picked quite an auspicious week to arrive: Barack is more popular down here than he is in the States. Quite a drastic difference in attitude towards Americans than my last few trips. It’s amazing that the world can welcome the U.S. back into the global community so quickly.

My neighborhood is great-I spent a few hours walking around and getting my bearings. There’s a little park a few blocks away. BsAs rivals Boulder as a haven for dogs. Everyone seems to love them. I also discovered a little plaza where I saw my first tango performance-kind of touristy, but it really is sexy as hell.

That’s it for now: I’ll follow up with more tomorrow.

Sidenote: I just proofread this entry, and realized that the comment about my “extremely efficient efficiency” might come off as disparagin-it really is a great place. Perhaps later you’ll be treated to a corny video tour, but for now, just check out the bathroom sink. This kind of fixture has been a dream of mine for years, and I’ve finally realized it.